The Sculpting Process

On the 6th March 2014 I started sculpting my prosthetic piece in my SFX (special effects) lesson at university. It has taken me a total of three weeks to complete my sculpt and I have thoroughly enjoyed the sculpting experience. From creating my design on paper and actually seeing the final sculpt, I am proud with the the outcome and I'm looking forward to the next process of turning my design into an actual prosthetic piece.

Here I have included a step by step on how to create my Strange Beauty creature. 

Required materials:

- Oil based clay

- Face cast of your model

- The design you are wanting to create on the face cast

- Hair dryer 

- Oven

- Variety of sculpting tools

http://www.amazon.com/Sculpt-Pro-Piece-Pottery-Sculpting/dp/B005KB7V8I

- Wire

- Plaster of paris

- Bowl

- Newspapers

- Wire cutters

- Scissors 

- Wire brush

Step 1.

Start by pre-heating the oven (50 degrees) and place the block of oil based clay onto a baking tray. Keep testing the clay by testing how hard it is using a sculpting tool. When the clay becomes soft, remove the tray from the oven using oven gloves. *Make sure you keep an eye on the clay at all times. When finished with the oven switch off the appliance. 

Step 2.

Using your sculpting tools start cutting chunks of clay. Start applying the clay to your face cast by laying the clay on. As I am using the whole face for the piece, it needs to be covered completely with the clay but leaving the eyes, mouth and nostril areas.

Step 3.

In this step I have shown the face fully covered with the clay and I have started to sculpt a nose and build up the eye area. For building up the eye area I used small sausage shaped pieces of clay and stuck it where I wanted the area to be raised. I then smoothed down the sides so it blends with the rest of the clay. I then ran my finger down the shape to create a smooth, rounded area; again this was blended into the clay.

I wanted my creature to have a sharp pointy nose which I created in the top and bottom image. I started off by taking sausage shapes and applying to the edge of the face casts nostril. Again I smoothed down the clay like I did with the building up of the eyes.  

Step 4. 

This image of the sculpt looks a little bit different to the last step, this is because I decided the nose was too long and my tutor also mentioned that if it I kept the nose that long it would snap during the moulding process. So I decided to make a small nose but not keeping it too pointy on the tip. 

In this step I also created cheekbones. This was created in exactly the same way as the nostrils, I created a thick sausage shape and placed it where I thought the ears stopped. I then smoothed the sides down so it blends off into the clay.

Side view of the high cheeks. Gives the impression of sunken cheeks.

I have also included a pointy chin in this step by taking a large chunk of clay and creating a triangle shape with it. This was then stuck onto the chin and blended into the clay. However, I'm feeling rather unsure about having the pointy chin and debating whether to remove it from the cast.

Step 5.

In this image I went on the decision of removing the chin as I did not feel pleased with how it looked.

Here I have built up the cheeks more than in the last image, and I'm still using the technique of creating sausage shapes and then blending them in. However I have been using this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Sculpt-Pro-Piece-Pottery-Sculpting/dp/B005KB7V8I

This tool has helped to 'shave' down the clay so it make the cheeks stand out a lot more.

Step 6.

In the image below you will notice that I have enhanced the eye socket and eyebrow. For the eyebrow I created thinner strips where it flicks up so it gave it a more natural blend.

Front view of the sculpt in progress.

I am very pleaded with how the sculpt is turning out and with the raised, flicked eyebrows and the high cheekbones it is really starting to give off the impression of a strange, sunken eyed character.

Side view of the sculpt in progress.

Left hand side view.

As you can see, the nose is a lot smaller and is thicker underneath so it is supported when moulding.

I love the shadowing that is created with the contoured cheeks and deep eye sockets.

Step 7.

I have added more definition to the eyebrows and eye sockets. I used the 'hook' tool to create more rounded, curved lines. I have also built it up round the eyebrow area using flat pieces of clay that I have layered at the sharp, brow line and blended out towards the back of the head.

Using the same tool, I shaved underneath the cheekbones and started to shave bits of clay from around the eyes and especially round the sides of the nose. This will give the impression of the nose looking slimmer and longer.

Eyebrows and cheekbones looking more defined.

Step 8.

I have started to create horns for my prosthetic piece and I have chosen some thin wire to construct them. To start I have made a circular base and secured it together using strong industry tape. I then wrapped the wire round different sized circular objects to create the ends more pointy and smaller then the base.

                                     

Wire spiral frame.

I then measured the wire next to the spiral frame and cut two inches after where the frame finishes just in case more wire is needed. Do this so you have two strips of wire that are the same size as the spiral. 

Step 9. 

Lay the wire spiral flat and you will notice that the wire dips and rises, for this next step the wire must connect to all of the rises. Starting at the circular base I used industry tape to secure the wire to the base, I then fixed it too the next loop (or rise) on the spiral (again still securing with the tape). Do this for the rest of the frame.

Now, do the same process but with the wire on the dips. The bottom image shows the completed frame. 

Wire frame complete.

Close up of wire frame.

Step 10.

In this step I have started to create raised sections on the head and again I am creating rolled pieces of clay to create them. I have also cut a circular section at the top right hand side of the head, this is where the horns will be placed.

I will then build up clay round the hole to create a stronger base for my horns to fit without falling out.

Step 11.

Wire horns complete and a perfect fit in the clay bases!

Wire horns in clay sculpt.

Step 12.

The next step is to cover the wire frame horns in plaster of paris. First cut the plaster of paris up into long strips and put to one side. Fill up a bowl with warm water and dip in the strips of plaster of paris. Rinse off any excess water and apply over the wire frame. Lastly smooth down the plaster of paris to hise any lumps.

Process of the plaster of paris.

Do the same technique until the wire frame is complete.

Step 13.

I have added the last little bits of detail by adding little swirls to the head and creating the last raised sections on the top of the head.

I have also used a wire brush to create skin like texture all over the face. This also helps smooth out any imperfections and rough edges.

I have also created the pointy chin again but this time it looks more natural than before.

The last step I need to do is to mould the sculpt next week on Thursday the 3rd. So look out for my 'Moulding Part 2' page soon!