*Mould release *High solids latex foam base
*Standard curing agent *Microcellular foaming agent
*Gelling agent *Mixing whisk
*Paint brush *Ratchet straps
1. Following up from 'Moulding Part 2', both casts should be thoroughly clean and can now start to make the foam latex prosthetic. First coat the cast in the negative of the sculpt using mould release. This will help to separate the piece later on.
2. Using a mixing bowl add 300 grams of the foam latex base, 60 grams of the foaming agent and 30 grams of the curing agent. This will be more than enough to cast my sculpt.
Now put the bowl under the whisk and time for 4 minutes on the fastest setting. The mix will start to look very fluffy and light looking.
3. Once the four minutes are up turn down the setting to a very low speed for six minutes. This will then break up any bubbles in the mixture.
4. Once the six minutes are over make sure to keep the whisk moving so leave for another two minutes on the lowest setting. This time you need to add 35 grams of a gelling agent and syringe into the mixing bowl. You need to remember to add this slowly and evenly into a bowl so the mixture doesn't turn lumpy. Turn the whisk off after the two minutes are up.
5. Once you have done this you can now start to apply it into the casts. Take a paintbrush and brush the foam latex into all the deep and detailed areas of the sculpt.
On my cast I needed to make sure it was thick round the base of the horns, and around the nose and cheek areas. Using your hand, scoop out foam latex and smooth it into the cast. Make sure you are wearing gloves for this.
6. Now apply the other half of the sculpt on top and squash down so they lock together. You will notice that excess foam will leak out of the sides. You will need to press down firmly for this. Now take the ratchet straps and tighten around your cast. The straps need to be tight to securely hold the casts together.
8. Pre heat the oven at around 80 degrees and when the foam sets, place into an oven to cook for 3 and a half hours.
9. Now that the casts are cooked turn down the oven and let the casts adapt to the change in temperature otherwise there is a danger of them braking. The cast will need to be left for another five minutes until they cool.
10. Remove the casts from the oven and leave them on the side at room temperature.
11. Now that the casts have cooled down, you can start to remove the straps.
12. Using a screwdriver, apply a bit of pressure to the half of the casts. This should help lift and separate the two halves.
13. Once the foam latex prosthetic piece is removed wash the piece with soap and water to get rid of any chemicals from the foam.
14. Looking at your prosthetic piece you should now have a nice thin edge. The thinner the edge, the better it is when it comes to applying to your model as you wont see the line.
I am really pleased with the final outcome of my prosthetic piece, I had to cast it three times to come out with the best piece. I had a bit of trouble With the first one as it snagged and pulled when it was being removed from the mould, I also noticed there were air bubbles in the nose of my piece and I had to drill a hole in the tip of the mould so the air bubbles could escape from it. On the second occasion sections were still being snagged. On reflection of the third attempt, this was the best one out of the two and I'm really pleased that I am at the stage of painting my prosthetic, and I feel lucky to have two practice attempts with the ones that didn't go to plan.
Head over to 'Practice Application' on how to apply and paint the prosthetic piece!
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