Moulding Part 2

Following on from 'The Sculpt' this next section will show you how to create the final plaster cast. Firstly you will need to prepare your sculpt for the second part of the moulding process.

Required Materials:

* Wire brush                                    * Talc
* Clay                                              * Vaseline
* Sealant spray                                 * Mould and face cast
* Plaster bandage                              * Plastic cups
* Bucket                                          * Rubber gloves
* Hessian                                         * Screwdriver
* Spatula                                          * Lighter fluid
* Tissue/sponge                                * Protective face mask


1. Using a wire brush, smooth out over the edges of the sculpt and all over the face and neck. I've looked at pictures of skin to show the different textures which I've then incorporated into the sculpt.

2. Apply talc onto the sculpt and gently brush onto all the detailed sections.

3. Now you need to create an edge between the prosthetic, to do this you need to apply clay to all the areas you don't need. For example, apply clay over the eyes of the cast but leave an edge or 'channel' round the eye area. The gap should at at least be a centimetre but make sure to smooth the line with your finger. This will create a smoother edge on your prosthetic.

 4. After you have done this apply a thick layer of Vaseline to all the 'channels' and edges of the cast. This includes the eyes, mouth nostrils, keys and edges of the cast. The reason Vaseline is used is so the final mould doesn't stick to inside the cast.

5. Now lightly spray the cast with a sealant spray to help lift the prosthetic out of the mould.

6. Once you have done this you need to prepare the sculpt for the second stage of moulding. Begin by creating a thick clay wall around the cast (approximately 10cm). The walls need to be smoothed into the work station, especially the corner sections. The thick clay wall will prevent plaster from leaking out of the walls when it's poured in.

7. You will need to create a layer of the plaster bandage using the same techniques as the modroc 'jackets', but this time the clay wall. This will create stability. You will need to create two layers of the plaster bandage around the wall, remember to make it the same width so the sides don't collapse. After this is completed leave to dry for 10-15 minuets.

8. Once the plaster bandages are dry you can now start to fill up the cast with plaster. You will need 1 cup water to 2 cups of plaster. Pour the water into a bucket and then gently sieve the plaster into the bowl. Remember to create the 'island' effect with the plaster so no lumps are in the mixture.

9. Now gently pour the mixture over the sculpt. You will notice that the plaster is very thin over the sculpt; don't worry as this is picking up the details from the sculpt.

10. After this has done leave the plaster for a few minuets and mix a second bucket of plaster. This time you need to add 2 cups of water to 3 and a half cups of plaster. If the mixture looks runny add another 1/2 a cup of plaster. This should look a lot thicker than the last.

11. Again pour the plaster over the sculpt this should strengthen the first layer. Make sure you cover the edges of the sculpt and apply lots of plaster to create strong edges. Apply hessian to the plaster and up the sides of the wall. Again apply plaster over the hessian to make it even stronger.

11. The plaster is then left for 25-30 minuets to set. Once it has set you can now start to remove the clay walls by peeling off the modroc. All clay needs to be removed from the mould.

12. Now you need to separate the two casts, however you need to be extremely careful not to apply to much pressure as they could crack resulting in starting the process again. You will need to use a screwdriver to carefully apply a bit of pressure under each half and lift. At this point you need to alternate the sides to create a gap in the halves, where air will be released making it easier to separate.

13. Now the halves have been separated, you will need to clean the mould. All the clay MUST be removed out of the mould before you start moulding the prosthetic. Some of the clay might be difficult to remove.

14. On my mould I found the clay really difficult to remove from the cheeks, horns and nostril area. For this I used a wooden spatula to remove any excess without damaging and chipping any detailed areas. You may even find a small amount of lighter fluid or white on a tissue, sponge or brush will help remove any bits of clay. You will need to wear a protective face mask as you will be working with strong fumes.

I was really pleased with how the mould of my sculpt turned out and it was exciting to think that I am very close to making my very own facial prosthetic!


Head over to 'Casting The Appliance' for the next steps!